Over the last 20 years, builders have been asked to build tighter wood homes using house wraps, seals, caulk, tapes and gaskets to reduce the amount of air infiltration/loss in the home. However, when these products fail, moisture gets trapped inside the open cavity of a wood stud wall, causing mold and mildew problems and rot. Our system is a “closed cavity” construction, with the concrete filling the entire cavity of the wall. The walls are resistant to mold and mildew problems because they are composed of three inorganic materials that do not attract water — foam, steel reinforcing bar, and concrete.

Test data on houses built with ICF exterior walls reveals dramatic savings in energy costs — for both cooling and heating — compared to wood- frame houses, according to research by Building Works, Inc. This energy efficiency comes from the polystyrene foam on the interior and exterior of walls —range from R-17 to R-26, compared to R-9 to R-15 for the walls of wood-frame homes. Walls are tighter, stopping air leakage throughout homes. Dust and allergens can be sealed out.

Our walls have a sound transmission classification of approximately STC 50 — which is twice as high, and therefore much better, than a typical wood-framed wall. Loud noises outside are reduced to a whisper.

No. The combination of concrete and foam means that the walls act as a natural barrier against air and moisture.

The walls have plastic rails that run vertically, allowing a fastening strip for mechanical attachments, such as exterior siding, brick ties and drywall. The flange is engineered to withstand high pull out stresses and is designed to keep the materials securely attached for decades. In all cases, most exterior and interior cladding can be installed with common attaching screws.

Most acrylic finishing systems are comprised of a reinforced base coat, optional primer and a 100% acrylic polymer finish. Finishes are available in a limitless color selection and offer performance enhancement options. Exterior acrylic systems are perfectly suited to walls that have exposed exterior foam, as the preparation for applying an acrylic system to the walls requires only rasping the foam before application. Portland cement stucco is also a very durable and can create an endless variety of colors and textures for the exterior. When stucco is applied to metal lath, three coats of plaster form a 7/8-inch total thickness. A vapor-permeable, water-resistant building paper separates the plaster and lath from the walls. The system works in all climates.

A wooden or vinyl buck is built and incorporated into the wall as it is being stacked prior to pouring the concrete. Once the concrete is cured, doors and windows are installed as usual.

The points at which utilities connect are identified prior to the pour, so that conduits can be placed through the wall where utilities can enter. Once the concrete is poured and cured. Channels or grooves are cut directly into the form. Plumbing and electrical lines are then inserted into the grooves and covered by drywall.

Recommended waterproofing is a protective sealant to the EPS and XPS foam, coupled with a drainage mat surrounding the foundation wall. A drain at the footer is recommended and may be required by code. Walls cure for at least seven days. The first floor is set in place or the top of wall braced prior to backfilling. The backfill material should be well drained and free of construction debris and large rocks. Once in place, backfill should be properly compacted and graded so that water does not collect around basement walls. Landscaping should be kept clear of the immediate perimeter to prevent water damage from irrigation.

It is recommended that a 3000 psi with a 3/8” smooth aggregate and slump of 5½-6 be used. However, there have been great advancements in mix design over the past several years that allows one to alter the design mix to provide for better flow and viscosity without increasing hydrostatic, or “form,” pressure. A common mistake is adding more water to the concrete on the job site to the mix to increase the flow and viscosity. If the slump is above 6, it will cause the form pressure to dramatically increase, causing a tear in the foam form. Instead, consider asking for a percentage of fly ash to be added to the mixture prior to delivery to the mix to increase the flow. Not only is it increasing the flow of the mix, it is also reduces the amount of cement in the system allowing for the increased use of recycled product in the project.

We recommend a concrete pump — or from the truck chute or conveyor belt for below-grade applications. Field studies have shown that free fall from great distances does not result in concrete segregation or reduction in compression strength. Concrete placement will typically begin by placing concrete through an opening in the window sill plate. Subsequent placement will take place from the top of the form, in lifts of approximately 4 feet, for a continuous pour to the final wall height. It is recommended to avoid placing concrete too close to corners, openings or thin columns to reduce stress on the forms. A hose reducer with a flex hose is helpful for the most precise placement. During the pour, walls are monitored for plumb and the bracing adjusted accordingly.